Slowly, Slowly - Reflections from Our Trip -7/20

I hope that I never forget this trip - the busy streets filled with food-cart vendors and motorbikes & cars with the constant sounds of horns signaling their presents, the artsy shops and rice terraces of Ubud, the cool breezes and lush mountains & valleys enclosing Munduk, the lakes and natural hot springs flanked by craters and active volcanoes of the central mountains, the white sand stretching out to the turquoise waters of the Blue Lagoon in Padangbai, the ubiquitous Bob Marley tunes playing in the background on Gili Trawangan, the feeling of walking on the pure coral beaches that surround Gili Meno, the marvelous skies with trippy clouds, brilliant stars and serene sunsets of Lembogan, and the surfers disappearing into the night off the towering cliffs of Bingin.

But, even more than those memories, I hope to never forget the kind and beautiful people that we met that helped guide us in our journey and those that added a helping hand or added some flare to our experiences. I hope to never forget Gede, our driver that led us to and from Munduk. In addition to his kind and helpful demeanor, we occasionally would witness his playful sense of humor, like when he informed us of how Bali's most expensive coffee, Kopo Luwak, is harvested (from the feces of an animal they call a luwak). Kutut, our guide to the top of Mount Batur who held unwavering confidence and patience for us as we slowly made our way up. Darta, dive master at Padangbai who had a warm smile, joyful eyes, and helpful spirit that was both reassuring and comforting when breathing air from a tank under water in our first dive. Jay, the no-nonsense, organized, best-dressed (nappy underwater attire) dive master whose patience was the perfect balance to Eurie, the carefree, Scandinavian, self-entitled "water clown" who bubbled with enthusiasm when describing the beauty of local marine life. We also received a hardy "hello" and helpful hand from our waiters, hotel staff, and the countless strangers with whom we crossed paths, who regularly had to point us in the right direction. We also had a wonderful shared experience with people that came from all over the world to see this beatiful country. We compared travel itineraries with a couple from Japan in a spa in Ubud, relaxed in the hot springs of Munduk with a group of Australians, discussed the best places to travel with some Americans on our hike to the waterfall, fell off the beaten path with a mother and daughter from Switzerland, made light of our boating and transport experiences with a young French couple, dove with some honeymooners from the UK, and watched a Scadenavian learn French in a dive company that was managed by a German. We also had the delight of having our friend Mindy along with us through much of the trip serving at times as our guide, photographer, and co-adventurer. Everywhere we went we witnessed the great melting pot of languages and culture.

It's easy to look at a place like Bali and find fascination in all that is different: food, religions, rituals, dress, the vegetation, climate, language, calendar--are all so different. And, yet, in looking through my photos and reflecting on the trip, I can't help but notice all that we have in common. I saw little kids playing in tide pools that reminded me of my girls enjoying swimming in Plainfield's aquatic center in Indiana. I saw two boys have stick fights that totally mimicked Charlie, my 5-year old nephew, with his Star Wars saber. And, as I watched a young lady and man playfully laugh at each other, I couldn't help but think of Tonya and me taking classes together at Purdue more than 15 years ago.

There were also the moments when I was reminded how fortunate I am, and my girls are, for being born in America. Throughout the trip, I was saddened to see woman carrying enormous loads on their head, with men directing them at times as if the women were mere pack goats. I listened to a thin, elderly Balinese man that was trying to sell us some type of healing oil, made from tree sap, to Tonya. He carried a smile on his face and held a demeanor that me think he was happy to just to rise to see another new day. At the end of our conversation he asked where we where from. After we responded, he looked at us with his deep brown eyes and a dreamy smile on his face and said, "Ah, America. You are such lucky people."

A phrase that I heard often on this trip spoken by those that helped me was, "slowly, slowly." I heard Gede say it before we opened the back door of the taxi on a busy street. I heard Kutut say it as he coached us through our steps up the mountain. I heard the guide that we encountered on our trip to the waterfall as we came upon the narrow paths. I heard Darta say it right before we started to descend below the waves in the Indian Ocean. The words are spoken as if they hold greater meaning than simply slow your pace. The words seem to guide not just the movement of your body, but it guides your state of mind. The people of Bali are both kind and playful and seem proud of what they have, rather than disappointed in what they don't have. They are strong and determined, yet seemto avoid the rat race mentality or hurrying through life. They seem content in the moment.

So, as I return from this trip, I know that I will be slammed back into my real world, where I wear dress shoes to work instead of flip flops on a beach, where the hustle of my morning routine often prevents me from finishing my cup of coffee, where I go to bed at night thinking about all the email messages, projects, and responsibilities that wait for my attention the next day. I hope that I can heed the advise of all those that guided me on this trip. Slowly. Slowly.

The motto has less to do with time management or reducing the number of hours worked in a day (although I do need to find better balance). The Balinese seem to work rather long hours every day of the week. But it is their thankful, reflective, joyful spirit that allows them to enjoy, almost savor, the moment they are in - truly living in the moment. So, I leave this trip, proud to be an American, thankful to be married to my best friend, comforted in knowing the girls had a wonderful time at their grandma and grandpa's house the last few weeks, eager to give them a big bear & snail hug and listen to their stories, and yes, even ready to return to work.

Slowly. Slowly. I'm ready to come home.

A boy playing in the tide pools of Bingin. 

A girl listening to the echo of her voice from (yes, you guessed it) a Pringles can at the pier in Padangbai. 

Boys in a pretend sword fight defending their "castles" on the beach of Gili Trawangan.

A boy glancing out of his hut in the rice fields of Jatiluwih.

4 woman carrying a lava rock up the beach in Lembogan. 

An anniversary so nice, we decided to have it twice - 7/20

Yesterday (7/19) morning we made our journey by boat then taxi to our next destination, our final stop in Bali: Bingin, which is on the northwest shores on the small peninsula at the South of Bali. Our trip there was rather uneventful, which we found refreshing.

Our cottage here is gorgeous, complete with a private pool and private gazebo, tucked in a rather unmarked village on the top of the cliffs that overlook the ocean. Beautiful. It's the perfect place to relax and reflect on the amazing journey that we've had the last two weeks. It's also not a bad place to celebrate our anniversary, which is today, July 20th. I remember the morning of our marriage, 11 years ago, Tonya and I went snorkeling in the tide pools of the lava rock on the Big Island of Hawaii. I remember thinking then, "How many guys get to go snorkeling the morning of their wedding day with their best friend, which happens to be the person that I'm marrying." I remember how happy and how lucky I felt that day. Last night, nearly 11 years later, I was sitting in a bar on the cliffs of Bali drinking a Bintang with my same best friend, my amazing wife, watching the sun drop, seeing it steal the light from the dozen surfers trying to catch just one or two more waves. And, as I glance at my phone while typing this, I see the pictures of Anna Mae and Lizzie, and the resemblance they hold of Tonya, and again am reminded that I'm the luckiest man alive.

Our flight goes from Bali to Hong Kong and leaves Hong Kong just before midnight. And, then time actually will stand still for us as we fly to the US, getting into LA before midnight, still July 20th with just enough time for me to make another toast to celebrate our 2 week trip and 11 year journey together.

Shores and cliffs of Bingin.

Bingin beach made up of entirely tide pools.

Tonya checking tide pools in Bingin.

Celebrating 11 fabulous years. (Fabulous for me. I would like to think Tonya would rate them at least above average.)

Enjoying an amazing Bingin sunset.

Up a Creek with a Paddle - 7/18

Today was a day of a lot of paddling. Having recovered from our sea legs, we were ready to hit some waves again - at least some smaller waves that find their way to the shores. So, we started by renting a 2-man kayak. Tonya jumped in as the bowman (person in front) and I was the muscle in back, the sternman. Having this new title, I found the urge to bark out orders like, "hard left now". But, the conditions really didn't warrant my "sternman voice." The waves were rather mild, so we just cruised along checking out one of Lembogan's largest crop, seaweed. Perhaps I'm easily interested, but I actually found the seaweed farms rather amazing. The seaweed covered the floor of the ocean in the shallow waters in very straight organized rows - complete with stakes and twine marking the rows. It was as straight and organized as an Indiana cornfield, but all underwater. So, me and my bowman just rowed up and down the rows of seaweed for about an hour.

A little later we decided to give paddle boarding a try. I marched our big boards down to the beach feeling a little like Potsie, from "Family Days" who tries to use an ironing board in place of a surfboard. This is a surfing town, with some real waves and some real surfers. So, let's just say that you make yourself known as a tourist when staggering to the beach with an overgrown board and a paddle to the portion of the beach with no whitecaps. But, I quickly got over feeling a little nerdy (I have lots of experience) and jumped on my giant board with the safety strap wrapped around my ankle. I wasn't sure what to expect. My first impression was that it was easier than expected. I balanced on the board and dipped my paddle from left to right. I was obviously a natural, born a gifted paddle boarder destined to set new recor..... Splash. That's pretty well how it went. One minute I was thinking how easy it was and the next minute I was underwater. Unfortunately for me, I was in the area they refer to as Laceration Point (!!) which I quickly learned probably has the name because of all the large rocks on the ocean's floor. The water was only probably waist high where I fell, so my foot instinctively must have sprang outward trying to gracefully manage my dismount. But, my foot quickly pounded into one of the big rocks. There was no real damage, other than a very sore, and probably bruised bottom of my foot. But, even after paddling around for a couple hours, I realized that it might be some time before I set those new paddle board records.
After catching the residual colors of another gorgeous sunset, we walked the beach and went back to the Pondok Baruna Warung (restaurant), the same place we ate last night, for the best fish curry I've had.
We went to bed with the sound of some large critter scurrying just above the ceiling in our cottage, but I had my ears focused on the sounds of the waves pounding the shore just a few steps from our cottage door and drifted off to sleep.
Another good day.

Don't we look like naturals?

A Big Ocean, A Lot of Motion, and a Little Commotion - 7/17

Today was mostly dedicated to traveling to Lembogan, another island just off the Southeast shores of Bali. We paid a person to shuttle us to Gili Trawangan, where we could catch a larger boat to Lembongan. While hanging out at Gili T, we had a few drinks and lunch at an Irish pub. It was a great view with good food. My only complaint is that a dying cat lay under my chair the entire meal. Incidentally, I've now seen a rooster in a grocery store, cats in restaurants, and a some stray dogs wander into a bank. (There are a lot of stray dogs and cats. It is rare for people here to actually keep them as pets, so they roam the streets much like... well, the chickens.) The strongest part of all this is that it is so prevalent, it really doesn't even seem strange. I've also seen Bali's only venomous snake--the one the guide book says "no worries, rarely seen"--during our hike up Mount Batar (in a tree) and the occasionally lizard in our hotel rooms and one freaky looking scorpion-like critter in our bathroom in Munduk with a thousand legs that hissed when I killed it. I actually have enjoyed seeing the wildlife (I still giggle every time I see a monkey), but I will be perfectly happy if we go the entire visit without seeing a cobra or Komodo dragon (which are present on the Gili islands).

Our trip on our boat to Lembogan was quite a joy ride. We were told it would be a "three hour trip". Well, I should have known that any boat ride going on a three hour tour may very well end with me trying to make a radio from coconuts on a deserted island. Although the Indian Ocean is the planet's smallest ocean, I was reminded today that all oceans are rather large, quite capable of making some impressive waves, mother nature's gentle way of reminding us who is really in charge. We, the 15-20 people on the USS Minnow, apparently drew short straws. Because there was a boat about twice our boat's size that we thought we were going to board, until we were herded into our little capsule. In truth, on shore the boat seemed rather nice with airplane style seats for each of us - nestled inside a cabin.

But, after about 15 minutes, I quickly realized this was not just a ride on Dad's pontoon through Patoka. I've been on larger fishing boats before and I've felt the swale from waves before. But, mercy. This felt different. The captain of the ship sat inside where we were all sitting, on a chair perched up to see out the front. The rest of us basically watched him rise in the air as the boat would cross a wave, and then feel our hearts jump to our throats as it fell back to the surface - with a thunderous smacking sound as it met the water. At impact, water would shower the windshields and would spray inside the cabin finding any opening it could in through our windows. Rise, fall, smack, squirt. Rise, fall, smack, squirt. The cycle continued only increasing in frequency and intensity. A few times the smacking sounded like cracking. I looked back only hoping the passengers behind me where still there. They were, both with white faces, with their hands clinching the top of my seat. Some of the waves began to roll us slightly sideways. I looked at the captain. He genuinely looked worried. His hands were moving all around the steering wheel, like a kid only pretending to steer a play car. I was getting accustomed to the rise, fall, smack, squirt pattern. What I did not like was feeling the boat enter a wave partial sideways and how it spun us with such ease. I also was not comforted by the look on the captain's face. There was a sign in the front of the boat that read "life jacket is under the seat." I decided this was a good time to verify. I found the life jacket in front of me and pulled it out - and kept a firm hand on it. I asked Tonya to do the same.

We continued to bounce through the waves. As we could see land ahead it seemed it might be calming a bit. But, about that time at the end of our rise, fall, smack, squirt, we received a bonus squirt, then a spray. Tonya noticed the top of the window at our seat had actually popped out of its runners. So now with each smack we were greeted with salt water in our laps. A couple of the the crew went to work on the window. Tonya and I got out of their way and stood hanging on to a pole inside the cabin. One of the crew members actually climbed on the outside along the edge hanging on to the boat, while being pounded with water, trying to fix the window. They continued to work on the window, but despite their best efforts, on a smack the window jarred from their hands and disappeared quickly into the waves.

The fresh air felt good, despite the water. I think it also helped the guy in front of us who held a bag open waiting for it to catch his lunch. And, now that Mother Nature had our attention, she also showed us her mercy. Suddenly all seemed calmer. Even with the window gone, we were just getting an occasional mist. The smacking was not nearly as deafening and the land ahead quickly pulled us forward. So, with only the loss of a window, we pulled into our shore, with us all eager to plant our feet on the solid ground.

Our luggage was stored in a compartment at the top of the boat underneath a tarp. But, that apparently was still within the waves reach, because the luggage and all the clothes inside are completely wet.
But after another amazing fish curry, a few Bintangs (local beer), and an amazing sunset, I again go to bed tonight with a smile on my face and keen awareness of my many blessings.

The treacherous trip. I'm looking at the guys working on the window that was jarred loose. 

Touring with Turtles - 7/16

Today had several highlights. Perhaps the best part was getting to see Anna Mae and Lizzie (and you too Mom and Dad) this morning via FaceTime on my iPad. It's good to know they are having so much fun at their grandparents. Anna Mae and Lizzie, it was good to also meet your new stuffed bears.
We had two more dives today. The best one was the second one where we went about 55 feet deep hovering along a huge bank of coral. We saw all kinds of fish. Some of my favorites included a scorpion fish that has a bunch of spikes protruding, disguising itself as coral. We also saw a giant moray eel, that was pretty cool and a little freaky. But the sea turtles stole the show. We saw more than a dozen sea turtles, with shells bigger than my body. We hovered just a few feet from them watching them relax, while other fish chewed plankton off their shells. My favorite was seeing one glide through the water directly behind Tonya slightly turning in her direction, as if he was saying "What's up, Dude." (I may have watched "Finding Nemo" one too many times.)
After the dives, we walked to the other side of the island and saw a beautiful sunset. We returned to eat at Mahalia's, this time opting for the grilled Tuna and seafood curry. We are now about to dig into a Lombok style pizza back at our bungalow.

Sunset on Gili Meno Island from within a little bungalow where Tonya, Mindy, and I enjoyed some drinks.

The sunsets are so amazing that even this rooster stood gazing at the horizon. (Free roaming chickens are pretty well everywhere throughout Bali, as a common source of food for people.)

A big boat, a little boat, and a really small horse - 7/15

Yesterday, much of our day was spent getting to our next destination: a small island off of Lombok called Gili Meno. But, I think much of the joy of this experience is the journey itself, not just the destination. We had to take a big boat to an island called Gili T. The trip itself was rather rough, with waves occasionally showering the windshield of the large boat, spilling into the cabin.

Gili T looked like a great backpacker place with small Reggae-type bars along the coast where we ported. While sitting on the beach, I noticed that there was a little commotion on the little road. There was a group of about 8 police officers surrounding a tall Caucasian wearing a large sign around his neck that read: "I am a thief. I steal from people." The police apparently were parading him up and down the main road. I found this to be a rather interesting approach to dealing with crime.

We took a smaller speed boat to the island of Gili Meno. We put the luggage on our back and jumped into the water at the shore and scurried up the beach thick of coral. There were some nice resorts, and maybe a dozen people lounging in chairs gazing at the teal water roll onto the shore.

There are no automobiles on this island. Other than foot, the main means of transportation are little horses that pull little carts or carriages. One of the drivers of the carriages asked where we were staying. We shared that we were staying at the Nautilus bungalows. He informed us that they were on the other side of the island. Although it is only about a 30 minute walk, we opted to jump in the carriage with our luggage. I asked the driver along the way how many people live on the island. He quickly responded: 272.

We arrived at Nautilus which are quant little cottages right by the beach. After unloading, Tonya and I walked around the island some more investigating diving options. We had a fabulous dinner that included grilled grouper and prawns at a restaurant right by where we are staying called, "Marrillas". The food was fabulous, but the setting was equally impressive. Tonya and I sat alone in these little huts (that look like small raised platforms) that are positioned so they are barely within reach reach of the waves.

I learned that the island got electricity about 4 years ago.... An island of 272 people, with gorgeous beaches, friendly people, and, yes even Wifi. This is my kind of place.

Today we are going diving again. 

A view of Gili Meno island from our small boat 

Me in a little carriage with a even littler horse.  

Salt Lake on Meno Island

Diving in Pandang Bai - 7/14

Today we took in some totally new sights - views from within the Indian ocean. We thought that we better brush up on some of our diving skills, so we began our day at 8:00 AM at Gecko Diving, for a quick course in diving. It was a needed review for Tonya and me and a quick overview for Mindy, who had never dove before. We met our dive master, Darta, who had us sign some papers, watch some videos, and help us pick out our wetsuits, masks, and fins. Within an hour, though, we were in the bay practicing removing our regulator, clearing water from our masks, and checking our underwater buoyancy. 

Although Tonya and I felt we had forgotten much of what had learned when getting certified 10 years ago, it did seem to quickly come back. I still was rather nervous about breathing underwater again. Mindy did great. She mastered the skills on the first try and was ready to do some diving.

We had a brief wait, but at 10:00 AM a boat picked the three of us up along with three other divers - one from Australia, two from Holland. We had a short ride to our destination - just by what they call the Blue Lagoon. We watched the three guys do a backwards roll off the boat. Darta and a couple other crew helped us get suited up and instructed us one at a time to roll into the ocean. So, Tonya, then me, and then Mindy rolled into the light blue water.

Darta led us in our descent. As my head submerged in the warm water, I immediately was welcomed by small group of fish and some coral. Sadly, there was a lot of dead coral, so the vibrant colors that we had seen in Cozumel 10 years ago were more impressive to me, but this was still nice. I concentrated on my breathing and blew out my noise equalizing my mask and my ears. Slowly we went down. Because of our limited experience, we only went about 30 feet.

But, it was so peaceful to be in a world with the fish - beautiful colorful fish that just kindly separate as you gently float through their surroundings of some tall coral. Some of it still looks very vibrant.
We continued our dive for about 30-45 minutes (I think) and then reboarded the boat. The three other guys on the boat quickly talked about the two small sharks that they had seen. Apparently we went by them as well, but unfortunately (or perhaps fortunately), I didn't notice them. I'm fine that they didn't bother introducing themselves. The boat was having some engine problems, so we had to end our diving for the day. Although I was ready for another dive, I also wasn't overly disappointed - since I wanted to slowly build back confidence any way.

After lunch at the Gecko dive shop, Tonya and I went for a short walk to the beach of where the boat had taken us. Mindy had swallowed a little water when laughing under water, so she decided to stay in her room. The blue lagoon beach was beautiful. It was nice to sit there and listen to the waves hit the shore. It also was surprisingly not very crowded. An old man came up to me wanting to sell some of his carvings. I listened to him tell about his children and grandchildren and was generally impressed with the carved jewelry box that he was selling. But, I continued to say no thank you. But when he showed me a carved bamboo whistle for $40,000 rupiahs ($4 US), I couldn't resist. I offered him $3, which he at first rejected. But, when I started to walk away, he was quick to say OK. 

We spent the evening relaxing. Tonya had a pedicure and we had a great dinner.  So, the day ended with me feeling good about the review of our diving skills. Now, I just need to learn how to play this whistle.

Bay view.

Tonya and I with Darta, our dive master. 

Blue Lagoon beach in Padang Bai

Rice Sure is Nice - 7/13

Today we left Munduk and ended our day at Pandang Bai. Gede was our driver again.
Along the way, we went by what is called the rice terrace. It is sprawling acres of rice fields of countless levels. Included are some pics, but they don't really capture the size of the area.

Gede also took us to a place that he liked for lunch in Terima Pesanan for his favorite food, Babi Guling, which is roasted pig. Although the food was good, my head is a little worried about my stomach. Let's just say that this would not pass USDA food regulations. The whole pig hung on a stick while two ladies used their bare hands to pick at it and scooped the rice with their hands and plopped it on our plate. They used a small bushel of thin sticks to frequently chase out the flies. And the restrooms... well I don't want to talk about it. Just know that TP is often not found in restrooms in Bali.

I'm really not sure why I ate it. I didn't want to offend Gede. Tonya was eating it, which I found shocking. And, it was pretty good. But as I type this picturing the flies, the restrooms, and remembering that the pork was served cool, none of these reasons seem very good.

I actually finished this post a day late, so hopefully my stomach has somehow endured this terrible test.

 In the rise fields.  Can you find the little boy that made a surprise appearance in the photo?

Lots of rice in different stages of growth. 

Babi Gulung

A Guide and a Stick - 7/12

Today we did some more hiking. This time our destination was waterfalls. We read that there were two big waterfalls near where we are staying, within walking distance. We were given a map by our hotel clerk and some directions on how to find the falls.

We started down the narrow path that begin very near our room. Within 10 minutes though we found ourselves in the small yard of some run down cottages of locals. If I was in the US, I would never travel down a small unknown path in a part of an unknown city with dilapidating homes. But somehow, in Bali, where everyone is kind and helpful, it wasn't even a little scary. The person pointed us in the right direction of our proper path. So we continued further down the narrow dirt path. After about 20 minutes, we again found ourselves in the backyard of a small hut. We began walking back trying to find where the path might break. But as we turned the corner, we were met by a young man, lady, and girl walking toward us. They too were looking for the waterfall. The guy was from Germany and the lady and her daughter were from Switzerland. Together we marched forward, periodically coming to small breaks in the path, not knowing which route to take.

The path also became narrower and led upward with very steep drop-offs to our left. Although I tried not to look, my eyes couldn't help but unveil the drop-offs of about 100 feet in places. Meanwhile we continued to just move forward carefully placing one foot in front of the other. (The path was so narrow that we couldn't put both feet side by side.) We finally found our way, in the end guided by the sound of running water.

The waterfall was beautiful. A cool midst of water rose from the shallow pool as the falling water smashed into the earth. The cool midst felt wonderful. We stayed for about 15 minutes taking in the beauty. A few other people arrived. We met a couple from New Mexico with two young boys. They gave us instructions on how to get to the second fall.

So, with smiles on our faces, we began our walk to the second falls. A heavy rain started, which we just embraced - knowing we were headed to water anyway. In about 30 minutes we came to a small coffee shop, where the workers directed us to the falls. This path was better cleared and even was paved in places. There were even stairs that led to the base of the falls. I mean a lot of stairs, very steep stairs.
We reached the bottom greeted again by a spectacular view of water rushing down the falls. Knowing that the climb up the stairs would be rough, we equipped ourselves with some bamboo walking sticks that we snatched from the surrounding jungle. The stick was a big help in getting up steep stairs. We stopped at small building or restaurant sitting in the middle of the woods along these paths. We ordered some lemon grass tea and watched the waiter simply go cut the grass from in front of the restaurant.
Now that's fresh! It did taste great.

As we continued back on the path, we though it might be wise to take a different path, the normal path that most tourists take - which leads to the main road that leads to our hotel. We reached the main road but quickly realized it would be even more dangerous to walk. The narrow road was filled with cars squeezing past each other - leaving no room for pedestrians. And, unlike most tourists, we didn't have a driver or guide.

So, we decided to take the path that lead us there. There was only one problem: we weren't sure which one that was. There are no signs or arrows pointing the way. We came to a crossroad in the path. Tonya was sure that going right led us back. I was equally sure that going left would take us back, and that right would lead back to the falls. Tonya seemed insistent. I then too was questioning the look of some of the markings in the path, like the grass laying over the trail in one place. I didn't remember seeing it. But, the heavy rain and thick fog was making everything look a little different. And, so, with about a 1 hour before sunset and a solid 45 minute walk to get back, I was suddenly nervous that we may not know our way. I agreed that we could hike the other direction, if nothing else to prove that it led back to the falls. But along that path, luckily we met another couple (from Chicago) with a guide. He confirmed my thoughts that the opposite direction led to our hotel.

So we turned around and headed in the opposite direction. We continued on the dangerous path which was muddy and slippery from the heavy rain. The high drop-off points seemed only more intimidating. I clung to my stick planting it with each step ensuring that one misstep didn't become my last. Luckily, the guide followed us and ensured that we stayed on the right trail back to our hotel. I'm not sure we would have found our way without him. Many of the small turns were hard to spot and our surroundings continued to transform with the rain.

I was relieved to find our hotel. I will include the guide and the stick in my blessings tonight.

Tonya and I at first waterfall.  

Second waterfall. These are just other visitors to the falls. Notice what they are using for umbrellas. 

Mounting the Summit -7/11

Today we were picked up at 1:30 AM and driven through the weary, foggy night to the base of a volcanic mountain called Batur. We arrived at our destination around 4:00 AM. Our goal: to reach the summit which is more than 1 mile elevation, or about a 2 mile walk that wraps upward. But by up, I mean a very steep up. I thought this would be tough, like climbing a big hill, but I was still surprised by its difficulty. The terrain is very rough, volcanic rock that makes it challenging to find firm footing and a bit unnerving knowing that a stumble could be very, very bad. There are no guardrails or paved paths. Armed with only a guide, named Kutut, a flashlight, and a backpack with a few items, like water, Mindy, Tonya, and I started our climb. I can't say the beginning was necessary easy, but the trail only got steeper and more rugged the more we ascended. I foolishly kept thinking we must be getting close, only to find the rugged path continue endlessly into the thick fog. The fog, I realized later was probably a blessing. We kept our flashlight beam squarely on the ground ahead of our steps. The fog blanketed us -preventing from seeing our surroundings. Only later on the descent would we see the precarious nature of our path.
One step after another we went up, up some more, and up again. The higher we got the more breaks we needed. I found it more and more difficult to catch my breath. Our guide stayed with Mindy and asked a local climber to guide Tonya and I up. We finally reached a small flattened level with a small shelter where we could safely stand and relax. The rest was much needed and felt good. After a several minutes, Kutut and Mindy joined us at the level. After they had a break, we continued on. A bit further we came to another rest area. Here, Kutut shared that this is where most stop and the the views from here are nearly as good. He advised Mindy to stay, but said Tonya and I could go up further if we wished. I left the decision to Tonya secretly hoping she would opt to stay. Kutut shared that we had about 30 more minutes to the summit. Tonya decided that we would forge forward.
And, by forward, I really mean up, a very steep up. What I thought was hard before, I now was missing. This was no longer a walk, it was a climb. My breath shortened with each step. I had to pause and catch my breath about every minute. The lava rock became a combination of pebbles and sand, which made it even more difficult to find a firm footing. Kutut grabbed Tonya's hand and helped pull her upward slowly. I would take two steps and find my footing give in the pebbles and slide down. The only thing that really kept me going was knowing I couldn't stay where I was at. But slowly, very slowly, we continued.
Until at last we reached the summit - a flattened area of about 20 square feet again with a small hut. Kutut show us to a small opening in the lava, where steam escaped. We waved our hand in front of the opening feeling the natural volcanic heat grab our hands. Kutut placed some bananas and two eggs in the opening. In about 15 minutes, he pulled out 2 hard boiled eggs and cooked bananas.
The view was still thick with fog, so we really didn't see anything - at least not for about 20 minutes. But, then, miraculously, the fog and clouds parted very quickly, like a electronic curtain for a window, exposing the spectacular view all around us. We saw the villages and farms below us, the distance mountains as far as Lombok, and the bulges in the earth in three concentric circles unveiling evidence that we were standing in the middle of three craters from centuries ago.
We took an alternate route down, which was suppose to be easier. And, perhaps it was easier, but it was still a bit tricky finding firm footing. We arrived at the base a little after 10:00, proud of the journey we just completed.
What do you do after a climb up a mountain? You go to the the natural springs at the base. Our drivers drove us to the natural hot springs nearby, where we enjoyed soaking our bodies in the hot water (as warm as a hot tub) gazing at the mountainous view.
The day continued with a stop for lunch, visit to a coffee plantation, a long drive back, and dinner at the restaurant in our hotel.
It was a fabulous day, but I should sleep good tonight.

Our view from the summit. 

Tonya and I celebrating our successful hike to top of Mt Batur behind us in the picture.  

Tonya and Mindy relaxing in the Hot Springs after the trek.  

Arriving at Munduk - 7/10

Today, we left Ubud and headed to Munduk via taxi. On the way, we stopped at the Botanical Gardens, had lunch at Cafe Teras Lempuna and went for a short hike by what the locals called "the twin lakes." Getting there was a little rough - literally. The road back to the lake was very bumpy. And the drive up the mountain is very narrow. Our driver was a very happy guy name Gede. He was very kind and eager to help throughout our trip. He picked us up at 10:00 AM and dropped us off around 5:00 PM for $35. (That's not per hour, that's for the whole time.)
Our hotel, Peri-Lumbung, sits at the top of the mountain. The view is amazing. It feels like a strange dream to be nestled in this beautiful place. Below is the view from here.

 Twin lakes hike trail view.

 One of the lakes as the mist encloses over the other.

Terrace produce farms on the way to Munduk.

Monkey Business - 7/9

We went to the monkey forest today. This is a place with a temple in a natural jungle forest. Monkeys are everywhere hanging out in hopes that visitors will toss them a banana. I caught a pretty good video of a couple baby monkeys hanging with their mom. Wifi is vey slow. I'm not able to share pics or videos at moment. We also spent the day going to several temples. We ended the day with a massage.

Another good day.

11th-century temples.

I am now a millionaire.

I don't mean to brag, but I am now a millionaire. Granted $100 US dollars equals (insert Dr. Evil voice) $1 million rupiahs (Indonesia's currency), but it still feels pretty cool to hand someone bills, marked with $100,000.
I also created some memories worth more than $1 million rupiahs today. We had some great hikes today overlooking stunning rice fields and gorgeous views of streams, hills, and vegetation. Took some pictures, but they really don't capture the beauty. Ubud (the city where we are staying for a few
days) is actually very busy, noisy, and a bit "unkept". The people are super nice and there are countless cool little shops, restaurants, and art galleries. But, the experience is a bit surreal. One moment we were walking down narrow, worn sidewalks bustling with people trying to sell items next to streets jammed with loud motorcycles and backed up traffic. But then, after a short walk and a rather unmarked turn, we are strolling through acres and acres of rice that is as tranquil as any place I've been.

Just off the beaten path from the bustling city of Ubud.

The Adventure Begins

We arrived in Bali and took a taxi for about 90 minutes to the place we are staying. Traffic is a bit crazy. No stop lights, stop signs, and little motor cycles that weave in and out of congested traffic craming as many cars as possible on narrow roads.
Meant Mindy M for dinner. She's doing well and is enjoying teaching English here.
Balinese food was delicious. More tomorrow, hopefully with more pics. My body is crashing for the night.

A view from our hotel terrace in Ubud.

Order within chaos: Bali's motorcycle traffic.

"Have you eaten rice today?" = Balinese greeting

Morning from the Other Side of the World

We had a good flight to Hong Kong. After such a hectic few weeks, the 15.5-hour flight finally gave me time to read, reflect, and even catch a little sleep. I spent most of time reading Lonely Planet's book on Bali. It has made me excited to arrive.
We arrived in Hong Kong around 9:30 PM thinking we needed to hurry to catch our connecting flight at 10:30 to Bali. In our sleep-deprived state, it took us a bit to realize that the flight was really at 10:30 AM next day.
So we caught a little sleep in the airport chairs and I read some more through the night. We're tired, but again glad to have time to read and relax. Next post probably will be from Bali.

 Fasten your seat belts: Paradise-bound.

Aaaarrg. No flights out to Bali tonight.